Function: What Use?
Palm Swell
The intended use determines most of the features of the grip. Palm swell can be left, right or ambidextrous – the amount also can vary from mild to extreme.
Middle Finger Shelf
This shelf is at its best when angled down from palm of shooting hand. I always put this on thumbrest stocks because there is only one way to hold them. This feature is not used if the grips are ambidextrous simply because it is not comfortable with the off-hand.
Thumbrest
This is used on target grips and in my opinion should not be used on any other grip. On a stock there can be a high or low rest, and low is better for all around shooting. High rests are really for pure target grips. Even grips I have made for myself that fit me as well as possible became painful to use with hot loads. Everyone is different, and if that’s what you’re sure you want I will be glad to make it. Just be forewarned I do not think it’s a good idea. If you want these grips to complement a particular gun that was primarily a target gun then I think the thumb-rest is more correct.
Checkering: Functional or for Appearance?
Checking adds much to the look of a set of grips, but also is an aid to function if it is placed properly and of the correct LPI. I use 18 LPI because it’s the best cross between comfort and looks. Finer checkering can be done on most good wood, but will take longer and as a result will cost more. The pattern can be nearly however you would like; I do mostly the scallop design only because it is popular.
Style: What You Want/What Looks Right/What Era?
The style is completely up to you. However, most people want the grips to be correct to the time period of the gun. A set of zebra wood fingergroove stocks on a triplelock just looks out of place. Any style can be produced.
Carving: Grip Appearance
Carving is usually done for decoration, exception is the Kearsarge Style. This style places the carving underneath the palm and fingertips where it aids the grip. This style is great for heavy recoiling guns as it tends to avoid the pain that sometimes goes with checkering and large bore guns.
Finish: Tru-Oil or Lacquer/Which is Best?
I have settled on Tru-Oil as the best finish to give the look I am after. I use anywhere from 5-10 coats applied by hand and sanded between with a few coats of linseed oil to finish up with a good buffing. I have tried Danish Oil but was not pleased with the drying time or working qualities. Lacquer is alternative finish that gives good protection and is easy to apply, but it lacks the true depth of oil.
Wood Choice: Walnut, Claro, French, Zebra, Etc.
Almost any good wood can be used. But, the most popular choice is walnut. I have Black, Claro and French walnut. All three are readily available and standard to exhibition grade. I never make grips out of a piece of wood that I wouldn’t want myself. I do not use stabilized wood, only wood that is properly dried and of excellent grain and quality. Many of the stabilized woods you might see may be attractive, but are not strong enough for use before stabilization. This combined with the ability to destroy checkering tools convinced me to avoid them altogether. Almost any kind of wood that you may want can be found.
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